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AHA vs BHA: How To Choose the Right Exfoliant

AHA vs BHA: How To Choose the Right Exfoliant

Mar 25, 2023

Reine Africaine

When it comes to exfoliants, choosing the right type can make or break your skincare routine. Since, the waves shifted from using physical exfoliants, those scrubby, gritty formulas. More and more people are encouraged by dermatologist and skincare experts to embrace chemical exfoliants as they consider them a gentler option for your skin compared to scrubs. But with so many options out there, how do you know which one is right for you?


In this article, we would take a closer look at the two most popular types of exfoliants - AHAs and BHAs - and see which one is best for your skin type and concerns.


What Is AHA and How Does It Work?

AHA stands for alpha-hydroxy Acid, which is a type of water-soluble acid commonly used in skincare products to exfoliate the skin. AHAs are derived from fruits like sugarcane (glycolic acid) or lemons (citric acid), milk (lactic acid), or sugar (mandelic acid). 


They work by breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells, making it easier for them to be shed and promoting cell turnover. This can help improve the texture and appearance of the skin, making it look smoother, brighter, and more youthful. AHAs are often used to address concerns like fine lines, wrinkles, dullness, and hyperpigmentation. However, they can be irritating to sensitive skin and can increase sensitivity to the sun, so it's important to use them carefully and to wear sunscreen when using an AHA product.


Most dermatologists generally recommend AHAs for normal to dry skin. People with rough skin texture from very dry skin can benefit from using lactic acid which is the most hydrating exfoliator in the AHA family. Lactic acid is also known to be great for sensitive skin. 


Now, some skincare experts claim that AHAs with smaller molecular weight like glycolic acid can sometimes prove problematic for darker skin tones. However, most dermatologists advise people with darker skin tones to proceed with caution as the problem lies in overuse. 


What Is BHA and How Does It Work?

BHA stands for Beta Hydroxy Acid, which is a type of oil-soluble acid used in skincare products to exfoliate the skin. The most common BHA used in skincare is salicylic acid, which is derived from willow bark. 


BHAs work by penetrating deep into the pores to dissolve excess sebum (oil) and unclog pores, making them especially beneficial for people with oily or acne-prone skin. BHAs are also known for their anti-inflammatory properties, which can help calm redness and irritation. 

Unlike AHAs, BHAs are less likely to cause sensitivity to the sun, making them a better choice for people with sensitive skin. However, like all exfoliants, it's important to start slowly and introduce BHAs gradually into your skincare routine to avoid irritation.


How To Choose AHA vs. BHA

Choosing between AHA and BHA comes down to your specific skin type, concerns, and preferences. Here are some factors to consider when deciding which one to use:

  • Skin Type
  • AHA is generally better for dry or sun-damaged skin, while BHA is better for oily or acne-prone skin. AHAs work on the surface of the skin, removing dead skin cells, and promoting cell turnover, while BHAs penetrate deep into the pores to unclog them and remove excess oil.

  • Skin Concerns
  • If you have concerns like fine lines, wrinkles, or hyperpigmentation, AHA may be more suitable for you, while if you're dealing with acne, blackheads, or enlarged pores, BHA may be more beneficial.

  • Sensitivity
  • Some AHAs can be irritating to sensitive skin, so if you have easily irritated skin, you may want to consider using a BHA instead.

  • Sun Sensitivity
  •  AHAs can increase sensitivity to the sun, so it's important to wear sunscreen when using AHA products. BHAs, on the other hand, are less likely to cause sensitivity to the sun.

  • Personal Preference
  • Ultimately, the decision between AHA and BHA may come down to personal preference. You may prefer the way one feels on your skin, or find that one is more effective for your specific concerns.


    It's important to note that both AHA and BHA can be beneficial for your skin and can even be used together in some cases. If you're unsure which one to choose, consider consulting with a dermatologist or skincare professional for personalized recommendations based on your specific skin type and concerns.